destination: North Carolina

We're back.  The whole thing was pretty sublime, really.  Very mild temperatures, brilliant autumn displays, misty rain, fog, sunshine, blue skies, and days of uninterrupted time with my Love.  It was as near to perfection as I've experienced. 

Here's a quick run-down of our favorites, should you find yourself lucky enough to be heading to the Old North State:

We spent the first couple of days in the Triangle area.  We stayed at the Carolina Inn beside the UNC campus and it was lovely and southern and the perfect location from which to explore the region.  We ate at  La Farm and Watts Grocery.  Both very good but nothing compared to the local institution, Sunrise Biscuit Kitchen.  This place doesn't even have tables, it's only drive-thru, and the line heads out onto the road and pretty decently backs up traffic.  With good reason...those biscuits are the real deal. 

We also took a historic trolley tour of Raleigh which we really enjoyed.  Of the region, we fell most in love with Chapel Hill.

From there we headed up to Asheville.  Had we any idea how much we would adore it, we would have gone nowhere else.  Downtown, the River Arts District, The Blue Ridge Parkway, The Biltmore - each stop was more fantastic then the last.  We were, quite literally, in our version of heaven. 

We ate at The Admiral - a fantastic dive gastro-pub, The Sunny Point Cafe - where Sean who is the picture of understatement claimed he had the best meal of his life (fried green tomato sandwich, goat cheese, & bacon on a croissant) and 12 Bones, where I know I had the best sandwhich of my life - a BLT, green tomatoes.  We left town with a new obsession - can you guess what it is?

Needless to say, you had to tear us away from that town.  I think we have found "our place" that we will be returning to again and again.  We even found the most amazing, secluded lake that we now fantasize about one day owning a little place on. 

Speaking of secluded little get-aways - the Biltmore, wowza.  My sisters family breezed through there last summer and were less than impressed so I have to say that I had low expectations.  Yes, it is the largest private residence in the country, but sometimes it's like - you've seen one big fancy house, you've seen them all.  Well Sean and I were pretty much blown away by the whole place.  And I fully understand why my sisters clan was not.  If you are in the vicinity, I HIGHLY recommend going to the Biltmore.  At $60 a person, you want to know that you are getting your moneys worth - and there is plenty to see and do to make a day of it.  Give yourself lots of time to see it all.  But this is the crucial part - don't go if you're not going to pay the extra $10 a person and get the guided audio tour.  Without it, it is just another big, fancy home.  The tour really makes the place come alive.  There is so much fascinating back story and intricate detailing that you totally miss on your own.  To fully appreciate the home you need to understand the man who built it and the people who stayed there.  We will be going back, next time with more time on our hands.  And I'll be bringing a notebook to jot things down.  The style inspiration there was endless.

{Funny side note: We saw The Duggar family and their camera crew while we were at the Biltmore.  I think that I heard that they were filmimg their Christmas episode there.  I really wanted to talk with Jim-Bob and Michelle.  I have questions.}

So, it was a splendid weekend.  I am so happy to be back with my babies but really I just want to pack them up and head back.  One day, perhaps.

{Here are some great resources...we used "The Newcomers Guide to North Carolina", "Travel North Carolina""Backroads of North Carolina" to help plan our trip.}

rendezvous

I'm off to meet my Love for our weekend away. Wishing you a weekend full of bright leaves, soft sweaters and plenty of good time with the one that you love most.  Be back Tuesday!

xo

image from {this is glamorous}

leaves

Sean and I are taking off alone next Friday to go to North Carolina, drive up the Blue Ridge Parkway and leaf gaze.  We also plan to hop out of the car and crunch, crunch, crunch our way up Grandfather Mountain and maybe try to see some of the waterfalls, as well.

I cannot wait. 

{images: 1, 2, 3, 4}

the long weekend

Oh my.  Words cannot describe how gorgeous Southwest Colorado is this time of year.  We hit Durango, Ouray and Telluride.  Each more beautiful than the last.  The temperature was in the high sixties, crisp.  The colors popped more each day.  Knock your socks off yellow all the way into jaw dropping reds.  Surely this is what heaven will be like. 

We hiked, attempted a climbing wall, trampoline bungeed, sled slid down the mountain, hit the farmers market in Telluride, scoped real estate, and had leisurely mornings with plenty of coffee.

I'm not sure the weekend could have been lovlier. 

Have I mentioned how fall makes me positively giddy?

Jane Eyre & Llangoed Hall

Sean and I were up late finishing our second film version of Jane Eyre.  This version was far better than the first but I must say that I detest three quarters of the story and only come to love it in the end.   I guess, that is perhaps the point, just a painful one.  But with all those drab and lovely English country sides I awoke this morning longing for Llangoed Hall.  This place has altogether nothing to do with Jane Eyre or even the English countryside seeing as it is found in Hay-on-Wye, in Wales, but the essence is all there.

Undoubtedly one of the most fantastic places that I have ever had the privileged of staying at - this manor turns typical lodging on it's head.  The butler greets you at the door and you are whisked inside - your bags later to appear in your room.  There is no receptionist, concierge, not even a bartender.  You are simply a guest in a large lovely house and are expected to make yourself quite at home.  The house staff will attend to your every need or you are welcome to just go fix yourself a drink at your leisure.  Once the home of Laura Ashley, now the place I often dream of escaping to.  The activities range from anything one might spot in a period piece.  For example, a picnic lunch will be packed to accompany you on a day excursion of a scavenger hunt.  Or you might just want to roam the grounds and find yourself lost in the massive hedge maze.  Or stay by the fire and play snooker.  Trust me, your stay would be anything but boring.  It may border on sublime.

and this is what I'd pack:*

{in the bag: green hat, sunglasses, compass, tweed jacket, cashmere cape, straw hat, pin, umbrella, boots, jodphurs, book, ring, blouse, gloves, cameo}

 * should these things mysteriously arrive in my posession.  I would never actually pay these prices...!

Cape Town dreams

Cassandra, over at Coco + Kelley, invited her readers to throw out their ideal vacations - real or imagined. Mine is fully imagined....for now. Here's where Sean & I are jetting off to in my dreams:

Planning vacations ranks up there as one of my all time favorite ways to waste time. Today, in my dreams - we're off to Cape Town, South Africa. It's just my husband & I this trip. My birthday was on the 16th and our anniversary is September 1st so we've decided to go big or stay home.

 We're staying at The Twelve Apostles Hotel & Spa. Holy divinity it this place gorgeous! Views from bed, views from the tub, when you dine, when you play. Totally enveloped in splendor. The Twelve Apostle Mountains behind, the Atlantic before, and fantastic downtown Capetown just a jaunt away. When we aren't getting spa treatments or eating ourselves silly - we plan to hit the shops, see some good theater, peruse museums, and eat some more. The ridiculously accommodating hotel staff will even have a picnic packed for us as we check out Table Mountain National Park.

All in all we plan on having no plan at all and just going wherever the South African wind may carry.

clockwise (remember this is a dream?):

leica M8

FE New York by Fantas-Eyes Sunglasses

Eugenia Kim Max 8 Straw Fedora

Kenneth Jay Lane Peackock Feather Earrings

Out of Africa by Isak Dinesen

DV by Dolce Vita Morgan Sandals

Field Notes Journals

Aurora Asia Fountain Pen

Miu Miu Brown Lambskin Hobo

Kiona Silk Playsuit

best of....

Two spots that we were particularly taken with were the shop Fancy Pony Land and the  Gallerie Urbane. 

Fancy Pony Land is connected to the fantastic little shop Wool & Hoop which I posted about several weeks back.  Shop Owner and Artist Lorna Leedy has created a space full of her own and others unique styles.  I was particular taken with her own line of penny necklaces and skirts.  So fun & pretty. 

The guest house that Tawny & I stayed at was just behind the Gallerie Urbane and run by the Gallery's owner, an artist himself.  This was our favorite Gallery in town and we were particular in love with the candy colored pieces by Andrea Zuill.

 

 

birthday weekend, Marfa style

Food, art, endless skies - we had an insanely good time in Marfa.  I would have to say that I would be hard pressed to come up with a better way to usher in 32 (thank you for all of your kind birthday wishes!). There was time & space & quiet enough for reflection and rejuvenation and I feel as though I am entering this next year full.  Excited even for what is in store.  Thank you Marfa for an invited assault on my senses and soul and for wide open spaces, to boot.

(all photos are our own).

Marfa

I have always loved my birthday.  I am one of those "oh, it's my birthday week", "but it's my birthday month" kind of people.  On Sunday I turn 32 years old.  Not sure what it is about 32 but I'm not feeling so excited.  Not only have I not been celebrating my birthday month as of yet - but I have hardly wanted to take notice of the day at all.  What is up with that?

I so long to be one of those people that marks each year with gusto, one who proudly shares their age viewing each passing year as a subsequent badge of honor.  Or at least a shiny gold button.  Something reflective & heavy with the weight of importance.  I don't want these days, years to pass un-noted.  Un-celebrated even.  I've earned these days.  I've spent myself on them.  They have worth.  They tell a story worth retelling. 

And then in a frenzy, yesterday, last minute, in a moment -  Tawny decided to fly out for the weekend.  Her spot in my friendship hall-of-fame cannot be adulterated.  We are to spend the weekend in Marfa and she is helping me to greet 32 with some dignity.  I may not be feeling it yet, but perhaps acting as though I'm feeling it is a start. 

{image: Marfa, TX Allison V Smith}

destination: Ruidoso

New Mexico is known as the Land of Enchantment and when I am in Ruidoso I understand why.  If you are looking for a small mountain town, not too touristy but really beautiful - Ruidoso may be just the one for you.  Located in Southeast New Mexico, the weather is temperate and the scenery is stunning. 

There is also plenty of the Old West to discover primarily focusing on the varied jaunts of Billy the Kid. 

Each season beckons with fresh beauty and plenty to see and do:

where to stay:  the Escape Resort or Inn of the Mountain Gods. 

where to eat: the Village Buttery (try the ham & green chile quiche), Willmon's Prime Grille, Cafe Rio.

where to shop:  J. Roberts, Backdoor, Atticus Books & TeaHouse

what to do:  Spencer Theater, Ski Apache, Ruidoso Down Race Track, camping, fishing & hiking at Bonito Lake, horseback riding through Fort Stanton

{images: Metzae, Debbie & Bob Parker}

more denim

Oh, Amsterdam. Why do you bait me so? 

Still, the perfect anywhere summer look, I think.

from Garence Dore, spotted here.

Navy Pier

I think it's gonna be a great day. 

We are about to head down to Navy Pier.  The kids can't decide if they are most excited about the train ride into the city or the Chicago Children's Museum, IMAX, ferris wheel and Cirque Shanghai, once we arrive. 

I'm just excited to play tourist in my old hometown.  And the view of this pretty city from a swaying bucket seat 150 feet in the sky.

If you were playing tourist in your own hometown, what might you do today that you've never done before?

{image: Dave Tamburo}

Ravinia Festival

Sometimes I feel as though the best of the things I've known in life, I knew about in high school. Music is a fantastic example. Few songs in my adulthood have affected me more than the songs I knew way back when.

There is a great outdoor music venue here called Ravinia Festival, that stocks their summer lineup with a long list of old favorites. People flock by foot, train or auto - most arrive heavy laden with manner of  picnicing paraphernalia.  I would be hard pressed to come up with a better way to spend a summer evening.  I audibly squealed with delight today when I saw that the Indigo Girls are playing there the evening that Sean arrives in town. Serendipity, I tell you.

I think that last concert I went to was the Indigo Girls. In high school.

Here's a favorite sampling from a song of theirs entitled Ghost:

"And the Mississippi's mighty
But it starts in Minnesota
At a place that you could walk across
With five steps down
And I guess that's how you started
Like a pinprick to my heart
But at this point you rush right through me
And I start to drown"

Modern-day troubadours, those girls.

{images: visit Chicagoland, UBS}

destination: Santa Fe

We just returned from spending a fantastic Memorial Day Weekend in Santa Fe, New Mexico. Truth be told, I had some pretty low expectations for this trip. Regardless of all of the great stuff that I have heard, I was pretty sure that Santa Fe just "isn't me". And I was right. Santa Fe "isn't me", but that doesn't mean I didn't love it just the same. Am I only now able to appreciate things that are not my natural bent? If so - I have wasted a lot of time. Charming, romantic, mysterious & alluring - Santa Fe is a great place to get lost in.

Here's my picks for the best places to wine, dine & unwind-

where to stay: The Bishop's Lodge for families, The Inn of the Five Graces for Couples

where to eat: Cafe Pasqual's, Harry's Roadhouse

where to spa: Ten Thousand Waves, Absolute Nirvana

where to shop: Santa Fe Farmer's Market, Seret & Sons (full of amazing finds from all over the globe & a suzani collection that made my heart skip a beat), Todos Santos (Chocolates & Confections - try the salted caramels!), Moss Outdoor

where to go: Loretto Chapel (amazing story & tons of quatrefoil to boot), Georgia O'Keeffe Museum, Santa Fe Children's Museum (if the kids are with you), San Miguel Mission, The Monroe Gallery Of Photography (has a fantastic retrospective right now of Mark Shaw's work), New Mexico History Museum (just finished a massive & really beautiful renovation)

{images: 1-Floyd Muad'Dib, 2-Eyetwist, 3-*CA*, 4-taylorkoa22}

Alys Beach

Remember when I was going on and on about Celebration, Florida? Well, I just stumbled upon Alys Beach, a little jewel hidden on Florida's gulf coast - and it could sure give Celebration a run for it's money.

Check this place out:

"An oasis of luxury with a distinct Mediterranean feel, Alys Beach is the crown jewel of Florida’s Emerald Coast. It is a beach community founded in New Urbanism and built to exacting standards for the utmost in luxury living. It is a tranquil escape from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. Alys Beach is a reminder that what once was can indeed still be. It is a life of balance, a life of beauty, a life of simplicity, a life of grace. Alys Beach is a life defined.

Located along Florida’s Gulf Coast, Alys Beach boasts one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. With a carpet of sugar-fine sand descending into crystal-clear waters, this stretch of Gulf Coast is unmatched in beauty. Zoning laws preserve the pristine beach and keep it clear of the billboards and storefronts that litter ordinary beach towns. The Emerald Coast is so clean and well preserved that it has been certified as a Blue Wave Beach by the country’s only environmental-certification program for beaches.

Set against this immaculate natural backdrop, Alys Beach is a distinctive beach town designed and founded upon the principles of New Urbanism, a movement that emphasizes community and whose hallmark is the placement of amenities in and around homes to promote walking, talking, and a sense of connectedness. Every one of Alys Beach’s amenities, from the idyllic Caliza pool to the neighborhood coffee shop, is located within walking distance of every front door."

These are some photos from their various real estate or vacation rental properties along with some of the public spaces:

Mom, Dad are you reading this??  You can get more information here.

Clayoquot Wilderness Resort

I made it clear here & here that I have a thing for luxury tented vacations.  

Well this little gem tops them all.  You would be hard pressed to find a more pristine setting and the accommodations, cuisine, activity offerings and wild life are top notch all the way.

I think this would make for the most unbelievable destination wedding ever.  But I'd be happy to go any old time.

"Some 30 minutes by boat from Tofino, or 20 miles as the eagle flies, rests a premier eco-safari destination called Clayoquot Wilderness Resort. The resort is open annually from mid May to the end of September only and offers all inclusive adventures of 3, 4 or 7 nights. 

Inspired by late 19th century Great Camps, Clayoquot Wilderness Resort promises the perfect pairing of soft adventure and soft beds - a delicious blend of childhood wishes and grown-up dreams.

Situated at the mouth of the Bedwell River, where it spills into a nine-mile-long fjord, an enclave of 20 great white canvas guest tents, massage and treatment tents, dining tents, lounge tents and a massive timber cookhouse peek out shyly from the dense bush. Clayoquot Wilderness Resort offers a discreet paradox of individual pampering, and remote, untamed wilderness."

 

the Hotel San Jose

So, we didn't get our destination wedding.  But we did ended up having a great wedding weekend with everyone we love.  Though we didn't set out for it to be like this - Sean's family and all of their friends were camped out at one hotel. My family and our family friends were camped out at another.  And Sean and I, with all of our friends - took up residence at the Hotel San Jose.  Ummm...that just worked out really well.  Everyone was getting to spend lots of time with the people that they really want to.  And had we known how great the San Jose would turn out to be, we might have planned our wedding in Austin around that instead.  It is just the perfect laid-back cool place to unwind before the big day. It's also so small that everyone was just walking around from room to room like we owned the place - not a bad fantasy to get to entertain the weekend of your wedding. 

{room service photo by Karin_and_Bruce}

Las Ventanas al Paraiso

My friend Katie keeps sending me these rude virtual postcards from her vacation at Las Ventanas al Paraiso.  I have been drooling over this resort for years.  Seven years, in fact.  Sean & I were booked to stay there for our honeymoon when we switched at the last minute after decideding we might want to actually eat over those 10 days we were honeymooning.  You see, affording to stay at a hotel is one thing and affording to stay and eat at a hotel is quite another.  I can't say if Katie is eating on this vacation or not, and really it doesn't matter. Those virtual postcards say it all: "food ain't all that."

destination: Dallas

I arrived in Dallas late last night for a long girl's weekend with Tawny.  I am oh-so-very-excited.  I thought I'd throw out a destination guide in hopes that you too, might get your girlfriends together and hit the Big D. 

where to stay: 

 Dallas has several fun hotels but for a girls' weekend I suggest the Stoneleigh.  

where to eat:  

Fabulous restaurants abound so this little list focuses on atmosphere as much as taste.  We sadly won't get to visit all of these spots but here's what we're choosing from:

Sushi Zushi, Rise No. 1, Tillman's Roadhouse, Breadwinner's, Lumi, Neighborhood Services, Alo', Screendoor, & Olivella's.

where to go:

the DMA, the Nasher Sculpture Center, Times 10 Cellars, the Gypsy wagon, ZaSpa, the Village Church.

Hayfield Manor: Cork, Ireland

This St. Patrick's Day I have no desire for green beer nor strangers kissing me because I am Irish.  I am not on the lookout for four leaf clovers nor leprechauns.  I am however pining for a trip to the Emerald Isle.  Doesn't all that green goodness sound divine right about now?  Should someone want to sweep me off to Ireland for the night (or month) - here's where I'd like to stay: the Hayfield Manor.  (Just needing a bit o' the luck of the Irish.)